1. Soak the rice overnight in the water. After soaking, grind the rice and water for 5 or 10 minutes in a blender to form a very smooth thin batter, (A food processor won't work for this.) When done grinding, you should be able to feel no more than the slightest hint of solid particles if you rub the batter between your fingers. Better too smooth than not smooth enough!

2. Lightly coat an 8" x 8" x 2" baking pan with oil and heat it for about 3 minutes in a steamer. Pour in ½ cup batter in an even layer and replace the steamer lid. Steam for 5 minutes. From this point on, check to make sure there's water in the steamer. Add boiling water as necessary if it's low.

3. After 5 minutes, coat the top of the first layer lightly but thoroughly with vegetable oil and pour ½ cup of batter in an even layer on top of it. Again, steam for 5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter. After adding the last layer, steam for 8 minutes. When sliced, the layers will separate into thin noodles.

4. Use immediately in any recipe calling for fresh rice noodles or wrap them tightly in plastic wrap and store in the 'fridge for up to 2 days. They can be frozen for up to 6 months, but will be grainy when thawed.

Recipe from "Thai Home‑Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen".

Chicken Fried Rice (Cao Pad Gai)

Serves 6 to 8

1 lb boned skinned chicken breast

½ lb (2 cups) yellow onions - sliced

1 bunch green onions

2 Tbs vegetable oil

2 Tbs finely grated garlic

1/4 cup fish sauce (less is better than more)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

6 to 8 eggs

8 cups steamed rice, chilled or at room temperature

1 cucumber, sliced diagonally 1/8" thick

6 green onions

2 tomatoes, cut into wedges

Fresh chiles, as many as give you the heat you want, sliced into rings

Lime Sauce

1. Slice the chicken across the grain into strips 1/8" thick and 1 to 2 inches long. Peel the yellow onion, remove the stem and slice vertically into thin strips. Set aside separately. Slice the green onion diagonally

into 1/8" pieces and set aside.

2. Heat a wok, add and swirl the oil, add the garlic and stir‑fry 'til lightly golden.

3. Add the chicken and chiles and stir‑fry 'til the pink color disappears. Add the yellow onion and stir‑fry 'til the slices are translucent.

4. Add the fish sauce and sugar and mix them in thoroughly. Stir while you add the eggs, one at a time, breaking the yolks. Continue stirring 'til the eggs begin to set.

5. Add the rice and stir until the eggs are almost dry and the mixture is well combined. Remove the mixture from the heat and add the green onions from Step 1, mixing them in well.

6. Transfer to a warm serving platter.

7. Arrange sliced cucumbers, green onions and tomato wedges over the rice in a decorative pattern. Serve immediately with Lime Sauce on the side.

Jun's Nam Jiaow

Green onion, red onion, prik bon (Thai pepperoncillo), fish sauce, lime juice and cilantro (optional). Doesn't taste hot, but makes your face and head sweat!

Gai Pad Gaprao

1 lb. boneless chicken thighs, coarsely chopped, or
cut into small bite-size pieces

4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2-3 shallots, thinly sliced (or substitute ½ cup sliced onion)

2-3 Tbs peanut oil for stir-frying

2 tsp. black soy sauce (the semi-sweet kind)

1-2 Tbs. fish sauce (nam plah), to taste

1 cup fresh Thai holy basil, or substitute with:1/4 cup dried holy
basil, soaked to soften plus ½ to 1 cup fresh Thai sweet basil

2 small kaffir lime leaves (bai makruet), very finely slivered (optional)

2-3                                           fresh jalapenos, cut into large slivers; or 5-10 Thai chiles
                                                chopped and pounded with a mortar and
                                                pestle

Dash of ground white pepper

Prepare the ingredients as indicated. Leave the fresh basil leaves whole; the flowers may also be used. The dried holy basil will soften when soaked in tap water for 10-15 minutes. Pull off and discard the hard stems. Drain.

Heat a wok until the surface is smoking hot. Swirl in the oil to coat the wok surface. Wait a few seconds for the oil to heat, then stir in the garlic, followed a few seconds later with shallots. Stir another few seconds before adding the chicken. Stir-fry a minute or two, or until most of the chicken has started to change color on the outside and is no longer pink. Toss in the chiles, slivered kaffir lime leaves and reconstituted dried holy basil (if using). Sprinkle black soy sauce over the mixture and stir-fry another 15-20 seconds. Then add fresh basil leaves and fish sauce to taste. Stir and mix well. Stir-fry another half a minute, or until the basil is wilted and the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with white pepper.

Stir and transfer to a serving dish, or spoon directly over individual plates of plain steamed rice.

Kao Soi (Curry Soup)

½ lb fresh egg noodles lo mein style

3 Tbs. Thai red curry paste

1 Tbs. Madras‑style curry powder

1 tsp. ground cumin

2 1/4 cups unsweetened coconut milk

1 ½ cups chicken stock (homemade makes a difference)

2 Tbs. nam pla (fish sauce)

2 squares palm sugar or about 3 Tbs of brown sugar

1 lb boneless skinless chicken breast cut into 2" pieces.

Cook noodles according to directions, drain, and refresh under cold water.

Add curry paste, curry powder and cumin to a heated wok(med‑high) and stir til fragrant, about 30 sec.

Stir in coconut milk and stock, bring to boil

Reduce to med heat and add nam pla and sugar. Simmer 5 min.

Stir in chicken and simmer another 5 min or 'til chicken is done.

Add noodles to soup bowl and ladle soup on top.

Add a little water if soup is to thick.

Sate (Chicken, Pork, or Beef)

1‑1/2 lbs meat, cut into strips not more than 1/8" thick

2 tsp coriander seeds

1‑1/2 tsp fennel or cumin seeds

2 tsp ground turmeric

1/4 cup thick coconut milk

bamboo skewers

Peanut Curry and(/or) Cucumber Sauce

Roast the coriander and fennel (or cumin) seeds in a dry pan until lightly golden. Grind to a coarse powder in the weapon of your choice. Mix the powder, turmeric and coconut milk thoroughly.

Thread the meat on the skewers and marinate in the mixture for 1 hour at room temp or overnight in the 'fridge.

Grill or broil to desired doneness, basting frequently with remaining marinade.

Serve with Peanut Curry and/or Cucumber Sauce.

Stir‑fried Chicken Giblets (Kruang Nai Pad King)

Serves 4 to 6 [Do NOT overcook!]

2 oz. (1/4 cup) ginger root, sliced

1 medium (1/4 lb) bell pepper

1/4 lb (1 cup) yellow onion, sliced very thin

3 green onions (scallions)

2 serrano chiles

½ cup water

1‑1/2 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)

2 Tbs oyster sauce

2 Tbs granulated sugar

1 lb chicken giblets

3 Tb vegetable oil

1 tsp. (2 cloves) garlic, finely chopped

1/4 tsp ground white pepper

Red lettuce leaves

1. Peel the ginger root and slice it crosswise into 1/4" or less slices. Remove the stem and seeds from the Bell pepper and cut it into 1" squares. Peel the yellow onion and cut it into 1" squares. Set both aside. Slice the green onions into 1" long pieces and set them aside separately. Remove the stems, but not the seeds, from the chiles and slice them into thin lengthwise strips.

2. Put the water, fish sauce, oyster sauce and sugar in a bowl and stir 'til the sugar's dissolved. Set aside.

3. Remove and discard the tough white part from any gizzards. Slice each giblet part way through and butterfly, so they'll be thin enough to cook quickly before getting tough.

4. Heat a wok, add the oil and swirl it over the surface. Add the garlic and stir‑fry 'til lightly golden. Add the giblets and chiles and stir‑fry over medium heat until the red color of the giblets is almost gone, about 2 minutes. Don't overcook them at this point.

5. Add the ginger, Bell pepper and yellow onion. Stir‑fry 'til the veggies are just crisp‑tender.

6. Add the mixture from Step 2 and stir about one minute. The sauce will NOT be thick.

7. Line a serving bowl with lettuce leaves and pour the giblets and sauce over them. Top with green onions and sprinkle with ground pepper. Serve with rice.

Recipe from "Thai Home‑Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen".

Spicy Sweetbreads (Tom Kreung Nai)

Serves 8 to 10

NOTE: For contrasting textures, the original recipe calls for 1 lb. each of beef heart, tripe, liver and small intestine.

4 lb sweetbreads

2 qts water

2 stalks lemon grass, bottom 6" only

2 Tbs kah (galangal) pieces

10 Kaffir lime leaves (Makrut)

1/4 cup fish sauce (nam pla) to taste

4 Serrano chiles

½ cup white vinegar

½ lb. mung or soybean sprouts

1 cup coriander or cilantro sprigs, coarsely chopped

1. Clean the outside of the intestines by rubbing them thoroughly with salt (or with alum). Turn them inside out (chopsticks are good for this) and clean the inside, now outside the same way. Rinse thoroughly and place in a large pot. Add the water, lemon grass, kah and Kaffir lime leaves. Bring to a boil and boil slowly for 15 minutes.

2. Add the heart, liver and tripe or other sweetbreads. Boil slowly for 45 minutes.

3. Remove the meat and slice them into 1" long or square pieces, depending on the original shape. Put them back in the pot and continue boiling for another hour or until the meats are tender, adding water as needed to maintain the original level. Remove from heat and add the fish sauce.

4. Pound the chiles in a mortar 'til they're soft, then chop them finely and mix them with the vinegar. Set aside in a small serving bowl. Divide the bean sprouts in soup bowls, ladle the hot stew over them and garnish with cilantro.

Serve with the chile‑vinegar mixture and rice.

Recipe from "Thai Home‑Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen".

Pad Thai

(Serves 6 to 8) {Jun's notes in [square brackets ]}

½ lb dried rice noodles, 1/8" wide

½ lb shrimp, chicken, pork or combination

[½ cup dried shrimp, rehydrated]

1/4 cup fish sauce [to taste]

1/4 cup + 2 Tbs granulated sugar [to taste]

1/4 cup + 2 Tbs white vinegar

1 tsp paprika or 1 Tbs tomato paste or 1 Tbs ketchup [paprika]

4 green onions

½ cup vegetable oil (more if needed in Step 6)

1 tsp (2 cloves) garlic, finely chopped

2 eggs [3]

¼ lb bean sprouts

2 Tbs ground roasted chiles (see below) [to taste]

1/4 cup ground roasted unsalted peanuts (see below)

Lime wedges

1. Soak noodles 20‑25 minutes in enough warm water to cover, 'til soft and flexible, but not mushy. Drain in colander and set aside, cutting into 8" lengths if desired.

2, Peel and devein shrimp, leaving tails intact. Slice chicken and/or pork into strips 1/8' thick x 1‑2" long.

3. Mix fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and paprika In a bowl 'til sugar is dissolved and set aside. Slice green onion (white and green parts) diagonally into pieces 1‑1/2" long x 1/4" thick and set aside.

4. Heat wok, add oil and swirl to cover. Add garlic and stir‑fry 'til light golden. Add shrimp and/or meat and stir fry 'til meat is no longer pink and shrimp are. Add noodles and toss lightly to coat and distribute meat and garlic.

5. Add liquid from Step 3 and bring to boil rapidly, folding noodles without breaking. Reduce heat to medium and boil, folding frequently 'til liquid is absorbed.

6. Using wok scoop or stiff spatula, lift the noodles from one side of the wok. Pour a little oil there, break one egg and slip it into the oil. Break the yolk and cover the egg immediately with the noodles. Repeat with the other egg[s] evenly around the outside of the noodles in the wok. Allow the eggs to cook undisturbed, over moderate heat, until set and almost dry. Add additional oil if eggs or noodles begin to stick to wok.

7. When the eggs are set and almost dry, fold them gently, but rapidly into the noodles, trying not to break the noodles. HINT: Insert scoop under eggs, lift through and fold over. Repeat until eggs are broken up and well distributed.

8. Add bean sprouts and sliced green onions and toss quickly but gently. Cook about 2 minutes 'til sprouts and onions are crisp‑tender.

9. Place on large warm platter. Sprinkle with ground chiles and peanuts and squeeze lime juice over.

Variation: Omit or reduce shrimp, pork, chicken and substitute pressed tofu cubes in Step 5.

From "Thai Home‑Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen."

This is basically how Jun makes it, with her notes in [square brackets].

Spicy Pig's Feet (Ka Mu Palo)

Serves 4 to 6

1 lb pig' feet

1 Tbs finely chopped coriander root (or bottom 1" of cilantro stems)

1 Tbs (½ oz.) finely chopped garlic

1/3 cup fish sauce (nam pla)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tsp black soy sauce

3 cups water

½ tsp 'five‑spice' powder (star anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel & peppercorns)

1/8 tsp ground black pepper

2 Tbs oil

Assorted pickled vegetables (see below)

Lime Sauce

1. Place the pig's feet over and very near very hot coals or not more than 1" from a hot broiler. Char the skin quickly, without cooking the meat. Very quickly! Use a propane blowtorch if you'd rather. Scrape away the charred, black part of the skin with a sharp knife and dry the pig's feet thoroughly with a paper towel.

2. Pound or grind the coriander root and garlic to a coarse paste in a mortar or blender. If you use a blender, add the oil to aid in grinding.

3. Mix the fish sauce, sugar, soy sauce, water, 'five‑spice' and pepper in a bow, stirring 'til the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

4. Heat a wok, add the oil and swirl it over the surface if you didn't add it in a blender. Stir‑fry the paste from 2 above until it's lightly golden.

5. Add the pig's feet to the wok and stir‑fry 'til a light golden crust is formed. Add the liquid from 3. above and stir to mix well.

6. Cover the wok and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for one hour or until the meat is very tender and falling off the bones.

May be prepared up to 2 days in advance, stored, covered, in the 'fridge and reheated just before serving.

Serve with assorted pickled vegetables and Lime sauce.

Assorted pickled vegetables (Pak Dong)

Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup boiling water

1/4 cup white vinegar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

½ tsp salt

1 cup cauliflower florets, stems or combination, coarsely chopped

1 cup cabbage, shredded

1 cup carrot, shredded

2 Serrano chiles, stemmed but not seeded, sliced thinly lengthwise

Combine the water, vinegar, sugar and salt, stirring 'til the sugar is dissolved and let cool to room temperature. Add the vegetables to the liquid and let them marinate, covered, for 1 day at room temperature or 2 or more days in the 'fridge.

Lime Sauce (Prik Manow)

Makes about ½ cup

Good with almost anything, especially seafood. Don't try to keep it more than one day.

4 Serrano chiles

3/8 cup lime juice

3 Tbs ish sauce

Remove the stems, but not the seeds from the chiles, chop finely and combine with the other ingredients in a small serving bowl.

Chiang Mai Sausage (uncured)

1 lb Pork (butt) ‑ minced/diced

2 Tbs fish sauce

½ cup garlic, minced

1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1 tsp cilantro root/stems, chopped

1/4 tsp peppercorns, canned

1 Tbs lemon grass, chopped

½ tsp galangal, chopped

1 Tbs shallot, minced

2 Tbs red curry paste

6 Thai chiles, minced

6 pair Kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced

Sausage casings, cleaned and prepared

Combine all ingredients but pork‑ pound into a paste. Mix paste and pork

thoroughly. Force into sausage casing and tie‑off in 4" lengths. You can

form into patties and grill. Refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to blend.

This is served fried with fresh Thai Chiles, Basil, and sticky rice.

Stuffed Chicken Wings (Peed Gai Sod Sai)

(Serves 6 to 8)

If you're serving it as an appetizer, slice the pieces half as thick as for a main course
Begin the dish way in advance, 'cause boning is time‑consuming the first few times you do it. The batter can also be used for deep‑frying other meats and veggies.

Boning chicken wings:

Practice will improve your technique and speed. If your market removes the wing‑tips, shop elsewhere.

1. If possible, select wings that have relatively loose skins, which makes it easier to manipulate the bones, skin, meat and knife.

2. Make sure that your knife is VERY sharp, and preferably has a narrow, curved blade, like a boning knife.

3. Bring the wings to room temperature. The meat and skin of cold wings are more difficult to handle.

4. Hold a wing vertically, with the part that was attached to the body pointing up. Cut carefully around the bone to sever all tendons. There are several tendons, so make sure you get all of them.

5. Scrape the meat back from the bone, holding the knife blade close to the bone and being careful to not puncture the skin. Or push the meat from the bone with your fingers, working down towards the elbow. As you work down, fold the skin back on the part of the wing you haven't reached yet, like turning a balloon inside‑out. Continue turning it inside‑out as you work. When you finish, the wing will be inside‑out.

6. When you reach the elbow, examine to see how the skin is attached. Cut and peel carefully to loosen the skin, meat and tendons. This is where you're most likely to puncture the skin. After the skin and tendons have been cut and pulled from the bone and elbow, remove the bone by bending the joint gently backwards and pulling it out with a twisting motion. Be careful not to break the bones in the second section.

7. Use the same procedure for loosening the skin, meat and tendons on the next section of bone.

8. When you reach the next joint, remove the bones by twisting as described in Step 6, above. It's easier to remove the small bone first, as that gives you more room to maneuver the large one.

9. At this point, the chicken wing will be folded inside‑out. Find the tip of the wing and pull it carefully through the boned wing to position the skin on the outside. Check for tiny holes to see where you may have cut or poked through the skin, so you'll have an idea of how to not make that same mistake again. If there are some holes, don't worry about them.

See 'Ahead ‑of‑time' note below.

(Continued on next page…)

6 chicken wings

2 oz bean threads

1 cup warm water

2 Tbs coriander root ( or bottom 1" of cilantro stems), finely chopped

1 Tbs finely chopped garlic

½ lb ground chicken

1‑1/2 Tbs. fish sauce (nam pla)

1 egg yolk

1/8 tsp ground white pepper

1 cup all‑purpose flour

1/4 to 1 cup thick coconut milk

3 Tbs Red Lime Liquid (see below)

½ tsp salt

1 Tbs egg white (optional)

vegetable oil for deep frying

Garlic Sauce

1. Bone the chicken wings as above.

2. Soak the bean threads in warm water for 10 minutes. They should be pliable, but firm.

3. Pound or grind the coriander root and garlic to a coarse paste in a mortar, blender or food processor. If you use a blender, you may have to add the fish sauce here.

4. Drain the bean threads thoroughly and cut them into 1" pieces. Set aside.

5. Mix the ground chicken, paste from Step 3, fish sauce (if you didn't use it above). bean threads, egg yolk and white pepper thoroughly.

6. Divide the mixture into 6 portions and stuff the chicken wings with it, making sure it goes all the way to the end of the wings. Massaging the wings from the outside helps get the stuffing in completely. If the wings have a few small holes in them, don't worry about it, but try to keep the stuffing from poking out. You don't need to tie or skewer the opening at the end.

Ahead‑of‑time note: The wings can be prepared up to this point up to a day in advance. Refrigerate, covered, and bring to room temperature before continuing.

7. Combine the flour, coconut milk, red lime liquid, salt and pepper to form a smooth batter. (Beat the optional egg white until stiff, but not dry, and fold it in.)

(Continued on next page)

8. Heat 1‑1/2" oil to 375 F. in a wok or deep skillet. Dip the stuffed wings in the batter, one at a time and deep‑fry them 'till they're golden‑brown. Don't over‑crowd the pan or the wings won't brown properly. Drain the fried wings on paper towels.

9. Slice the wings diagonally into pieces about ½" thick. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature with Garlic Sauce.

Red Lime Liquid

Put a 3.5 oz. pkg. of Red Lime Paste (available in Thai/Asian markets) into a one quart jar and fill with water. Shake or stir well and let it sit for at least 30 minutes before using. Replace liquid removed and shake. Can be kept indefinitely in the pantry, repeating this procedure, 'til the residue has turned pale, almost white.

Garlic Sauce (Nam Jim Gratiem)

Makes 3/4 cup

½ cup water

½ cup white vinegar

½ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp ground chili paste

2 tsp finely chopped garlic

½ tsp salt

Combine all ingredients in a stainless steel or enamel saucepan and boil slowly until volume is reduced by half. It will thicken more as it cools. Recommended room temperature consistency is a little thinner than unwhipped heavy cream. Adjust by adding water or additional boiling, 'til you've got what you like.

Thai Crisp‑Fried Garlic (Gratiem Tord)

½ cup (2 oz) garlic, finely chopped

1 cup vegetable oil

Fry over medium heat 'til light golden. Remove immediately from heat and allow to continue to cook in the hot oil off the heat. Use alone or with the oil. This will keep for a couple of months in a covered container at room temp.

Stuffed Yellow Chiles (Prik Leang Sod Sai)

Serves 4 to 6

Depending on your love of heat, these can be made with anything from bell to habanero peppers.

This recipe, like all others, is a good starting point.

1 tsp finely chopped coriander root (or the bottom 1" of cilantro stems)

1 tsp finely chopped garlic

1/4 lb lean ground pork

1/4 lb ground raw shrimp

1 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)

1‑1/2 Tbs tapioca starch

½ lb.(about 12) small yellow (Hungarian wax) chiles

2 eggs

1 tsp all‑purpose flour

vegetable oil for deep‑frying

Lime sauce (above)

1. Pound the coriander root and garlic to a smooth paste or grind them in a blender with the fish sauce. Mix thoroughly with the pork, shrimp, fish sauce and tapioca starch. Set aside.

2. Remove and save the stems from the chiles and scoop out the seeds without breaking the chiles, OR leave the stems in place and split the chiles along one side and remove the seeds. Discard the seeds (or mix them in with the mixture in 1. above).

3. Stuff the chiles with the mixture. Secure the removed stems with a toothpick or press the sides back together.

4. Place the chiles on a lightly oiled steaming rack and steam them for 15 or 20 minutes, 'til the pork mixture is done and the chiles are soft. Remove them from the steamer and let them cool to room temperature.

5. Beat the eggs lightly, while slowly adding the flour to them. Heat a wok and add about ½ cup of oil. Dip your fingers into the egg mixture and dribble just enough on the oil to form a single‑layered network of egg strands. Cook the eggs until they JUST set. As soon as they're set, but before they dry out, put one stuffed chile in the center of the net and wrap the egg network around it, turning the chile as you do. Continue turning the chile and the wrapping until the egg is golden, but not crisp. Remove and repeat with the other chiles.

[NOTE: Increase the amount of flour to 1 Tbs. and dip the chiles in the egg batter, instead of wrapping them with egg nets, then deep‑fry until crisp and golden‑brown. Not as pretty, but a lot less work.]

You can prepare them up to 4 hours before they're to be served, but do NOT refrigerate them after they've been fried!

Thai Haw Mok (Spicy steamed fish)

Serves 6 to 8

1 lb Assorted red snapper or other firm‑fleshed fish, mussels,
squid and fresh shrimp, mixed

2 eggs

1 recipe Red Curry 2 (see below)

3 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla) to taste

¾ cup thick coconut milk

1 lb Napa cabbage

1 cup cilantro (coriander sprigs)

Boiling water

1. Wash and dry the fish. Lay each fillet on a cutting board and slice diagonally into paper‑thin slices. Place the slices in a large mixing bowl.

2. Separate the eggs. Add the yolks to the fish and set the whites apart in a small saucepan.

3. Stir the fish and yolks gently with a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Add the Red Curry 2 and nam pla and stir gently 'til the mixture is thick. Add ½ cup of coconut milk, 1/4 cup at a time, stirring constantly and gently 'til the coconut milk disappears, maybe another 5 minutes.

4. Slice the cabbage crosswise into 2"‑long pieces. Blanch in boiling water 'til soft, but not soggy. About 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool under running water. Squeeze a handful at a time (without crushing) to remove as much of the water as you can. Spread the cabbage evenly over the bottom of an 8"x8"x2" baking dish and set the dish aside.

5. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of coconut milk to the egg whites and stir to mix thoroughly. Bring the mixture to a boil rapidly and immediately remove from heat.

6. Pour the fish mixture from 3. above over the cabbage, spreading it evenly. Pour the mixture from 5. above over it. Sprinkle the cilantro on top.

7. Place the baking dish in a steamer and steam for 15 to 20 minutes, until the fish is white, opaque and firm.

8. Serve immediately, in the baking dish, with rice.

NOTE: Jun makes cups out of bamboo leaves to cook individual servings in.

Thai Deep‑fried Fish (Pla Tord Rad Prik)

Serves 4 to 6

Even people who don't normally like fish, this is a real treat. Any firm‑fleshed fish that will fit in the wok or skillet without hanging over the edges will do.

1 oz wet tamarind or 2 Tbs concentrate

1/4 cup warm water

2 oz (12-14) serrano chiles or the fire of your choice

½ cup yellow onion, finely chopped

2 Tbs garlic, minced

1/4 cup vegetable oil (use in Step 2. if using blender)

3 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla), or less to taste

2 Tbs granulated sugar

1/4 cup water, or less

1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves

1 cleaned whole fish, including head and tail, 2 or 3 pounds
after cleaning

1/4 cup mint leaves, loosly packed

1/4 cup carrot shreds, finely shredded long strips

¼ cup cabbage, finely shredded

vegetable oil for deep‑frying

1. (omit if using tamarind concentrate) Soak wet tamarind in warm water 'til soft, about 15 minutes. Put the mixture in a sieve and press out all the pulp and liquid you can. Discard seeds and whatever won't go through the sieve. Scrape all the pulp from the outside of the sieve and add to solution. Set aside.

2. Remove the stems, but not the seeds from the chiles and chop finely. Pound or grind the chiles, onion and garlic to a coarse paste, adding oil if blending.

3. Heat a saucepan or skillet and add 1/4 cup oil if you did not use a blender in Step 2. Add the paste from Step 2. and stir‑fry 'til lightly golden. Add the fish sauce, sugar, water to the consistancy you want and tamarind solution (if you used tamarind concentrate, You may have to add additional water). Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add the mint leaves and keep warm while you cook the fish.

4. Make three diagonal slashes on each side, cutting about ½ way to the bone.

5. Put 1‑1/2 inches oil in a wok and heat it to 375 F (190 C). Dry the fish thoroughly and slide it into the oil gently to avoid splattering. Fry until crisp on outside and the flesh along the cuts is lightly golden, turning once, being careful not to break it, about 5 minutes, longer for thicker fish. Do not undercook it, skin and exposed flesh should be light and crispy. Remove carefully, drain thoroughly on paper towels and place on serving platter.

6. Pour the sauce over the fish and garnish with mint leaves and shredded carrot and cabbage.

7. Serve at once with rice. The fish may get soggy after 15 minutes or so.

Coconut Chicken Soup (Tom Kah Gai)

Serves 4 to 6

1 lb white or dark chicken meat with bones left in

3 cups thick coconut milk

5 pieces kah (galangal)

3 Kaffir lime leaves

2 serrano chiles (to your liking)

½ cup coriander sprigs (cilantro)

2 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)

2 Tbs lime juice

1. Slice or chop the chicken into 3/4" pieces or thin strips. Bones add flavor, remove them if you'd rather.

2. Put the chicken, coconut milk, kah and Kaffir lime leaves in a saucepan, cover and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until chicken is done.

3. Remove the stems, but not the seeds, from the chiles and crush them with the side of a cleaver or large knife until they split open in several places. Coarsely chop the cilantro.

4. Add the fish sauce, lime juice, cilantro and chiles to the soup, remove it from the heat and stir well to mix all thoroughly. Taste and add lime juice as needed to balance coconut milk sweetness.

Serve with rice.

Recipe from "Thai Home Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen", by William Crawford & Kamolmal Pootaraksa, but this is the basically the way cuz makes it.

Hot & Spicy Chicken Soup (Tom Yum Gai)

Serves 4-6

3 stalks lemon grass, bottom 6" only

4 cups water or chicken broth

3 Kaffir lime leaves

1 lb chicken breasts

1/4 cup + 2 Tbs. fish sauce

1/4 cup + 2 Tbs lime juice

3 Serrano chiles (to your liking)

½ cup cilantro

1. Slice the lemon grass in half, lengthwise. Crush the slices with a knife or cleaver and put them in a saucepan with the water or chicken broth and Kaffir lime leaves.

2. Chop the chicken into 3/4" pieces, leaving the bones for flavor or removing them. Set aside.

3. Bring the water or chicken broth with the lemon grass and Kaffir lime leaves to a gentle boil and boil for 5 minutes, covered. Add the chicken and fish sauce and boil gently, covered, until the chicken is done, around 15 minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add the lime juice.

5. Remove the stems, but not the seeds, from the chiles, Crush the chiles with a side of a cleaver or large knife until they split in several places. Add them to the soup and stir.

Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice.

Recipe from "Thai Home Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen", by William Crawford & Kamolmal Pootaraksa.

Thai Cashew Chicken (Gai Pad Mamuang Him Ma Pan)

Serves 4 to 6

½ lb (2 cups) yellow onion, sliced

1 large green (bell) pepper

2 stalks celery

1 medium carrot

3/4 lb boneless skinned chicken breast

10 small dried red chiles (see NOTE)

1/4 cup oyster sauce

1 Tbs fish sauce (optional ;‑))

½ cup water

1 Tbs tapioca starch

1/4 cup water

3 Tbs vegetable oil

1 tsp (2 cloves) garlic, finely chopped

1/4 lb unsalted cashews

Peel the onion and remove the root portion. Remove the stem and seeds from the Bell pepper and cut the pepper and the onion into ½" squares. Slice the celery and carrot diagonally into 1/8" thick pieces. Set these all aside in a bowl. Lay the chicken breast flat on a cutting board and slice it in half horizontally. Cut the chicken into 3/4" squares and set aside. Remove the stems and seeds from the dried chiles and set aside. Mix the Oyster sauce, (fish sauce), and ½ cup water in a small bowl. In a separate bowl, mix the tapioca starch and 1/4 cup water.

Heat a wok, add the oil and swirl it over the surface. Add the chiles and stir‑fry 'til they turn dark red, being careful not to burn them. Remove from wok and set aside. Add the garlic to the wok and stir‑fry 'til light golden. Add the chicken and stir‑fry 'til the pink color disappears. Add the veggies and stir‑fry 'til they're crispy‑tender. Add the Oyster sauce mixture and stir it in well. Stir in the tapioca starch mixture. While stirring, add the cashews and fried chiles. Stir‑fry 'til the sauce is moderately thick. Serve hot with rice.

NOTE: Frying ½ dozen or so whole dried red chiles along with the seeded ones, so everybody can get one or two on their plate, will offer a challenge to the big dogs and fat men!

Recipe from "Thai Home Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen", by William Crawford & Kamolmal Pootaraksa, my Bible when Jun's not here.

Garlic Pork (Mu Gratiem )

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound boned pork chops or pork loin

½ cup (1/4 lb) garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cup coriander root (pak chii) or bottom 1" of fresh cilantro,
finely chopped

2 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla)

1 Tbs granulated sugar

¼ cup water

3 Tbs vegetable oil

1 Tbs ground white pepper

Red lettuce leaves

1. Slice pork across the grain into 1 to 2" strips, not more than 1/8" thick and set aside. Pound the garlic and coriander root in a mortar to a smooth paste.

2. Combine the fish sauce, sugar and water in a small bowl and stir 'til the sugar's dissolved. Set aside.

3. Heat a wok, add oil, swirl to cover. Add the paste from Step 1 and stir‑fry 'til lightly golden.

4. Add the pork and stir‑fry 'til the pink color disappears.

5. Add the white pepper and stir‑fry about 1 minute. Don't let it burn.

6. Add the liquid from Step 2 and stir over moderate heat until the sauce begins to thicken and any stuck portions are loosened, about 1 minute. Add more water if it gets too dry. There should be about ½ cup of sauce.

Serve over lettuce leaves, with rice.

Crisp‑fried Catfish with Hot Curry (Thai Pla Doog Pad Ped)

Serves 6 to 8.

This should be served and eaten as soon as it's been folded into the sauce.

2 lbs catfish steaks [ (or fillets) or snapper]

½ cup vegetable oil

3 recipes Red Curry 2 (see below)

2 Tbs nam pla (fish sauce)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

vegetable oil for frying

Cilantro (Coriander sprigs) to garnish

1. If using fillets, slice them into 1" squares. Pat the fish dry with paper towels.

2. Pour about 1" of oil in a hot wok or deep skillet and bring to 375 F. Fry the fish, turning frequently, until it's firm and crisp. About 3 minutes for snapper, 5 for catfish. To make it Thai style (so the bones are edible), cook it 'til it's crisp all the way through. Set aside on paper towels.

3. Heat a wok or large saucepan and add ½ cup oil. Add the Red Curry 2 and stir fry over medium heat until the curry is fragrant and thick, 5 or 10 minutes. The color will change to dark red and the aroma will be . . . full! Add the nam pla and sugar and mix them in well. The curry should be thick, but not pasty. If it's too thick, add water, one tablespoon at a time, until you have a smooth, thick sauce.

4. Add the fish and fold it in very gently, making sure that each piece is evenly coated. Try not to break the pieces of fish.

5. Remove the fish and sauce to a warm serving bowl, garnish with cilantro and serve immediately with rice. Don't try to keep it warm, as the fish will get soggy.

Variation: Garnish with pickled rhizome if ya can find it.

Thai Spicy Green Beans (Pad Ped Tou Kag)

Serves 4 to 6.

1 lb fresh green beans ("yard long" are good)

½ cup vegetable oil

1 recipe Red Curry 2 (below)

2 Tbs nam plah (fish sauce) to taste

2 Tbs granulated sugar

½ cup water

Slice the green beans diagonally into pieces 1/8 inch thick by 2 inches long. Blanch in boiling water 30 seconds, drain and set aside.

Heat a wok, add the oil and swirl to cover pan. Add Red Curry2 and stir‑fry 'til dark‑colored and fragrant. Add the green beans and stir‑fry until they're crisp‑tender. Add nam plah, sugar and water and bring to a rapid boil.

Put the cooked beans and sauce in a warm serving bowl and serve immediately with rice. This rich, flavorful dish goes well with milder meat dishes.

Thai Stir‑Fried Beef with Mint (Nue Gra Pao)

Serves 4 to 6

1 lb flank steak (any kind of beef is OK, but flank is easy to cut
across the grain)

14 Serrano chile peppers or the fire of your choice (less is OK),
finely chopped

1/4 cup chopped garlic, finely chopped

½ cup yellow onion, finely chopped

1/4 cup vegetable oil

3 Tbs fish sauce

1 Tbs granulated sugar

½ cup or more water

½ cup mint leaves, loosely packed

lettuce leaves (Romaine makes a pretty bed) for plating

Slice the beef across the grain into strips 1/8" thick and 2" to 3" long. Set aside.

Pound or grind the chiles, garlic and onion to a coarse paste.

Put the oil in a hot wok, swirl it over the surface and add the chile/garlic/onion paste. Stir‑fry 'til it's lightly golden. Add the beef and stir‑fry 'til it's evenly tan. Don't overcook it!

Add the fish sauce, sugar, water and mint and give it a few stirs. You want about ½ to 3/4 cup of sauce. As soon as it starts to bubble, put it all on a single layer of lettuce leaves in a serving bowl.

Serve with plenty of rice or other fire absorber.

Recipe from "Thai Home Cooking from Kamolmal's Kitchen", by William Crawford & Kamolmal Pootaraksa, but this is essentially the way the cuz makes it.

Thai Won Ton Soup (Geow Nam Moo)

Serves 4 to 6

1/4 lb boneless pork chops or pork loin

1/4 lb ground pork

1 tsp fish sauce (nam pla)

1 tsp green onions, finely chopped

½ tsp garlic, finely chopped

½ tsp coriander root or bottom 2" of cilantro stems, finely chopped

1/8 tsp ground white pepper

24 won ton wrappers

2 qts water

2 stalks bok choy

6 cups chicken broth

¼ cup fish sauce (to taste)

1 green onion, finely chopped

1 tsp crisp‑fried garlic, without its oil (see below)

½ cup cilantro

1/8 tsp ground white pepper

1 BBQ or broil the pork until it's done, and let it cool to room temp. When it's cool enough to handle, slice it across the grain into strips about 1/8" thick and 1" to 2" long. Set aside.

2. Mix the ground pork, fish sauce, green onion, garlic, coriander root and ground pepper thoroughly. Place 1 to 1‑1/2 tsp of the filling into the center of a won ton wrapper and fold in half to form a triangle. Moisten the inside edges of the wrapper and press them together lightly to seal them. Repeat with the other wrappers, setting them aside under a lightly dampened towel to keep them from drying out.

3. Bring the water to a rapid boil in a large pot and add the won tons. Reduce the heat and boil gently 'til done, about 5 minutes. Drain them in a colander and cover them with wax paper to keep them soft and pliable. Discard the water.

4. Slice the bok choy diagonally into pieces about 3/4" thick. Blanch them about 2 minutes in enough boiling water to cover. Drain and rinse immediately in cold water to stop the cooking.

5. Bring the chicken broth to a rapid boil, stir in the fish sauce and remove from heat. Divide the won tons, green onions, bok choy and sliced pork equally into individual soup bowls. Pour the hot broth over them and sprinkle with crisp‑fried garlic, cilantro and ground pepper.

Crisp-Fried Garlic

May be kept covered on a pantry shelf for a month or two

For each 1/4 cup finely chopped garlic, use 1 cup oil to fry it over moderate heat 'til light golden. Remove from heat and let it continue to cook in the hot oil off the heat. Some recipes use it with the oil, others without.

Green Papaya Salad (Som Tam)

Serves 4 to 6.

½ lb dried shrimp

2 lbs green papayas

1/4 lb green beans

1 tomato

1/4 cup ground roasted unsalted peanuts (a little larger than grains of sand)

½ cup Lime Salad Dressing (see below)

Green lettuce leaves

1. Place the dried shrimp in a sieve and rinse them thoroughly with hot, running water. Set them aside to drain in the sieve.

2. Peel and seed the papayas and shred them into long julienne strips. Slice the green beans lengthwise into thin strips. Slice the tomato vertically into very thin slices. Place these ingredients in a mortar or whatever and pound them with a pestle or large wooden spoon to soften them, so they'll absorb the flavor of the dressing more easily.

3. Grind the re‑constituted shrimp in a blender or food processor to a powder and set aside.

4. When you're ready to serve, add the shrimp and peanuts to the salad and toss with the Lime Salad Dressing.

5. Put a single layer of lettuce leaves on a serving bowl and arrange the salad on top.

Lime Salad Dressing (Nam Som Tam)

Makes about 1‑1/4 cups

4 serrano chiles

2 tsp finely chopped garlic

½ cup fish sauce (nam pla)

½ cup lime juice

1/4 cup + 1 Tbs granulated sugar

1. Remove the stems, but not the seeds, from the chiles, and chop the chiles finely. Pound the chiles and the garlic to a smooth paste in a mortar.

2. Add the remaining ingredients and stir 'til the sugar is dissolved.

Thai Curries, Sauces & Dressings

Panang Curry (Nam Prig Gaeng Panang)

Especially good with beef or chicken dishes that are cooked in coconut milk. (makes ½ cup or up to 1 cup if ground with water)

7 small dried red chiles, Thai, Japanese, New Mexican or Californian

2 pieces kah (also called galangal or lao) ‑ there is NO substitute

2 pieces Kaffir lime rind ‑ there is NO substitute

½ cup warm water

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6 in. only

¼ cup coriander (cilantro) root or the stems of cilantro, finely chopped

¼ cup (1 oz.) yellow onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons (1 oz.) garlic, finely chopped

2 tsp coriander seed

1 tsp fennel or cumin seed

1 teaspoon shrimp paste ‑get it at a Thai‑Asian market

Remove the stems and the seeds from the chiles. Soak the chiles, kah and Kaffir lime rind in the warm water for 15 minutes. Drain before using. Retain the water for grinding (see below) if necessary.

Chop the chiles, kah, Kaffir lime rind and lemon grass finely. Combine the ingredients and pound or grind in a mortar or blender. If you use a blender, you may have to add a little water to aid in grinding. This will last in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Green Curry (Nam Prig Gaeng Ki Warn)

Makes ¼ cup or up to ½ cup if ground with water

2 pieces kah (also called galangal or lao) ‑ a form of ginger

2 pieces Kaffir lime rind

¼ cup warm water

7 (1 oz.) serrano chiles

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6 in. Only ‑get them at a Thai‑Asian market

¼ cup coriander (cilantro) root or the stems of cilantro, finely chopped

¼ cup (1 oz.) yellow onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons (1 oz.) garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon shrimp paste ‑get it at a Thai‑Asian market

Soak the kah and Kaffir lime rind in the warm water for 15 minutes. Drain before using. Retain the water for grinding (see below) if necessary.

Remove the stems, but not the seeds, from the chiles and chop the chiles finely. Chop the kah, Kaffir lime rind and lemon grass finely. Add the remaining ingredients and pound or grind in a mortar or blender. If you use a blender, you may have to add a little water to aid in grinding. This will last in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Red Curry I (Nam Prik King)

Makes ¼ cup or up to ½ cup if ground with water

Hot, rich and very fragrant

7 small dried red chiles, Thai, Japanese, New Mexican or Californian

2 pieces kah (also called galangal or lao) ‑ a form of ginger

2 pieces Kaffir lime

¼ cup warm water

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6 in. Only

¼ cup (1 oz.) yellow onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

Red Curry II (Nam Prig Gaeng Pet)

Makes ¼ cup or up to ½ cup if ground with water

9 small dried red chiles

2 pieces kah (galangal)

2 pieces Kaffir lime rind

1/4 cup warm water

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6 inches only

2 Tbs garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cup yellow onion, finely chopped

1 tsp shrimp paste

1/4 cup coriander root or bottom inch of cilantro, finely chopped

1. Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles. Soak the chiles, kah and Kaffir lime leaves in the warm water at least 15 minutes. Drain, reserving the water if you'll be using a blender later.

2. Chop the chiles, kah, Kaffir lime leaves and lemon grass finely.

3. Combine all and pound in a mortar or grind in a blender, adding water as necessary, to form a smooth paste.

Roasted Red Curry (Nam Prik Pao)

Makes 3 cups

This is the authentic, traditional recipe. Reduce the amount of shrimp paste if you want, but don't eliminate it. A very strong odor will develop when you're frying the dried shrimp and shrimp paste, so either prepare it when no guests are around or on an outdoor BBQ, in which case, put the wok directly on the red‑hot coals. It will keep up to six months in the 'fridge. The oil will rise to the top, so stir before using. Spread thinly on toast, serve as a cocktail snack, side dish or dip.

3 oz. wet tamarind or tamarind extract

½ cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup warm water

1/4 lb dried New Mexico, California or hotter chiles

1 cup vegetable oil

½ cup finely chopped garlic

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

1‑1/4 cups dried shrimp

1/4 cup shrimp paste

1. Soak the wet tamarind in 3/4 cup warm water for 15 minutes, then press through a sieve, getting all the pulp you can, including the water. Scrape the outside of the sieve to get all the pulp. (skip this if using the concentrate)

2. Place the tamarind solution and sugar in a saucepan, adding 3/4 cup warm water if you use the concentrate). Bring to a boil and immediately remove from heat. Let cool to room temp.

3. Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles and tear into pieces no larger than 1" square. Heat a wok, add ½ cup oil and swirl over surface. Stir fry the chiles over moderate heat until they are deep red and lightly fragrant, but don't let them burn. Remove the chiles, but not the oil, from the wok and set them aside in a bowl.

4. Add 2 more Tbs oil to the wok and stir fry the garlic 'til lightly golden. Remove garlic, but not oil, and add it to the chiles.

5. Add another 2 Tbs oil to the wok and stir fry the onion 'til it's light golden. Again, remove and add to chiles and garlic.

6. Add 1/4 cup more oil to the wok, add the dried shrimp and cook for about 1 minute, then add the shrimp paste and stir fry 'til the color is uniform and the strong odor has subsided, 1 or 2 minutes. Add all the wok contents, including the oil, to the previously fried ingredients and allow to come to room temp.

7. Place the fried ingredients, oil and tamarind mixture in a food processor or blender and grind to a smooth paste, adding more oil if it seems dry. Store in closed jar.

Musman Curry (Nam Prik Gang Mussaman)

Makes ½ cup or up to 3/4 cup if ground with water

7 small dried red chiles

2 pieces kah

½ cup warm water

1 Tbs coriander seeds

1 tsp cumin or fennel seeds

1 tsp whole cloves

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6" (15 cm) only

2 Tbs garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cup yellow onion, finely chopped

1 tsp shrimp paste

½ tsp ground black pepper

1 tsp ground nutmeg

1. Remove the stems and the seeds from the chiles. Soak the chiles and kah in the warm water for 20 minutes. After soaking, drain, if you will be using a blender to grind the curry, retain the water.

2. Place the coriander seeds, cumin (or fennel) seeds and the cloves in a dry skillet and roast them over moderate heat until the cumin seeds have darkened, the cloves have turned green‑grey and the mixture is very fragrant, about 2 minutes.

3. Chop the chiles, kah and lemon grass finely. Combine with the ingredients from 2. above and pound in a mortar with pestle or grind in a blender, adding water from 1. above, as needed, to a smooth paste.

4. This will last in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Peanut Curry (Nam Jim Tooa)

Makes about 3‑1/2 cups

3 Tbs coriander seeds

2 Tbs cumin seeds

3 small dried red chiles

2 pieces kah

1/4 cup warm water

1 stalk lemon grass, bottom 6" only

1/4 cup yellow onion, finely chopped

2 Tbs chopped garlic, finely chopped

1 tsp shrimp paste

1 Tbs ground white pepper

2 Tbs vegetable oil

4 cups thick coconut milk

3 Tbs fish sauce

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1‑1/2 cups ground roasted unsalted peanuts [NOTE: pieces a little
bit larger than grains of sand are about right]

Roast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry wok or skillet over medium heat until light brown, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Set aside.

Remove the stems and seed from the chiles and soak them and the kah in the warm water for 15 minutes. Drain, discarding the water.

Chop the chiles, kah and lemon grass finely. Pound or grind them, the onion, garlic, shrimp paste and pepper in a mortar or blender 'til smooth, adding a little coconut milk if needed to form a smooth paste.

Heat a wok, add the oil and swirl over surface. Add the paste and stir‑fry until it darkens and is fragrant. Add the fish sauce, sugar and ground peanuts. Stir to mix well. Add 1/4 cup of the coconut milk and stir over moderate heat 'til the mixture thickens. Continue adding the coconut milk 1/4 cup at a time.

Use immediately or store in the 'fridge up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for 6 months.

Spicy Almond Sauce for Sate

You might want to try this as a different kind of dipping sauce for sate!

1 cup toasted unsalted almond slivers

½ Tbs hot sauce

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

1/4 cup Thai basil leaves

1 Tbs fish sauce

2 limes, for juicing

1 Tbs sugar

1/4 cup peanut oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

Water to thin

Garnish: basil, cilantro and almonds

In a food processor, puree all. Don't make 'Peanut butter' out of it. May need to add a little water to make puree smooth. Check for seasoning. Garnish with basil, cilantro and almonds

Jun's Nam Prik Kii Gaa (Spicy Crow Poop) Dipping Sauce

You will appreciate Pee Jun's scientific precision (and my parenthetical 'refinements')

1 full hand Jalapenos, chopped (2 cups?)

1 big red onion, chopped (1 cup?)

gra tiem or garlic crushed or chopped (1 cup?)

Pan‑fry the above, no oil, until nicely done (?)

1 handful (1 cup?) dried shrimp

Pound in mortar or blend in blender or food processor. Add:

2 or 3 Tbs lime juice, to taste

2 or 3 Tbs fish sauce (nam pla), to taste - better too little than too much.

1 or 2 Tbs sugar, to taste

Adjust consistency to be like a dip, with hot water if necessary. Good as

a dip with cucumber, celery, carrot, broccoli, etc.

Ground Roasted Chiles

Heat a wok, add a little oil and swirl it over the surface. Add fresh chiles and stir‑fry 'til they turn dark red, being careful not to burn them. If it drives everyone out of the house, yer doin' it right!

NOTE: Frying ½ dozen or so whole dried red chiles along with the seeded ones, will offer a challenge to the big dogs and fat men!

Jun's Nam Yaa

Dried Thai Chiles

Pickled Rhizome (Kra Chai) ‑ Asian market

Galanga

Lemongrass

Tilapia (scales removed)

Red onion

Garlic

Water to cover

Boil together. Remove fish, take off meat and add meat back to the mix.

Blend all in a blender.

Heat a wok. Add thick coconut milk, a little at a time, stir‑frying to

thicken before adding more. When thick, add mixture from blender and

stir‑fry 'til medium thick and fragrant.

Boil again, adding fish sauce and Nam Plara (or Jun's secret) to taste. [NOTE to Nick: ?????????????]

Serve hot over cold Kanom Jeen.

Jun's Tamarind Sauce (Nam Prik Ma-Kaum-Pookem)

20 fresh tamarinds

30 fresh prik keenoo

1 whole red onion

½ whole fresh garlic

6 whole pickle crab (pookem)

2 Tbs fish sauce

2 Tbs sugar

Cut the tamarinds into one seed segments, putting them into salt water (1 Tbs to 3 cups or so), Then cut the segments in half and remove the seeds

Put everything except the crab in a food processor (make sure you take all the seeds from the tamarinds out before you put in the blender) and blend to combine well, adding the crab near the end, then put it in a big bowl. Add 2 Tbs of fish sauce and 2 Tbs of sugar...then taste it see if you like it, If not you can add more fish sauce or sugar.

Serve with fresh vegetables like cucumber, broccoli, cabbage, etc...

Thai Cucumber Sauce (Nam Jim Tang Quai)

Makes 3 cups

Nam Jim Tang Quai I (for Fish Cakes).

1 lb cucumbers

2 serrano chiles

½ medium onion

½ cup granulated sugar

1 cup white vinegar

½ tsp salt

1. Peel the cukes and slice them crosswise into 1/8" slices. Remove the stems, but not the seeds from the chiles and slice them into thin rings. Peel the onion and remove the root part. Slice them into thin vertical slices.

2. Combine all, mixing 'til the sugar is dissolved. Use within 2 hours^*.

Nam Jim Tang Quai II (for Sate)

Makes 1‑3/4 cups

1/4 cup granulated sugar

½ cup white vinegar

1/4 cup boiling water

1/4 tsp salt

1 tsp ground chili paste

½ lb cucumber

2 Tbs. ground unsalted peanuts (a little larger than grains of sand)

cilantro (coriander sprigs) to taste

1. Combine the first 4 ingredients and stir 'til the sugar's dissolved. Let cool to room temp.

2. Peel the cuke and slice it crosswise into 1/8" slices. Rough chop the cilantro.

3. Combine all. Use within 2 hours^*.

Nam Jim Tang Quai III

Makes 3‑1/2 cups

For Deep-fried Bread & Pork, Fried Chicken Curry Wontons

2 serrano chiles

½ cup cilantro

½ lb cucumber

1 cup granulated sugar

2 cups white vinegar

1 tsp salt

½ cup red onion, coarsely chopped

1. Remove the stems, but not the seeds from the chiles and slice crosswise into 1/8" thick rings. Peel the cuke and slice it crosswise into 1/8" slices.

2. Mix the sugar, vinegar and salt and stir 'til the sugar's dissolved. Combine all and use within 2 hours^*.

^* NOTE: The 2 hour admonition is because if allowed to stand longer, the cukes will start to become soggy.

Jun's Nam Prik Ma Muang (mango)

Red onion, prik bon (Thai pepperoncillo), garlic, canned tuna, fish sauce and green mango. The garlic is browned in a dry frying pan, then pounded in a molcajeta. This is hot! I had it with cooked okra. Mmmmm!

Red Ant Eggs and Larvae (Kai Mod Dang)

Serving Ideas

Serves as an excellent substitute for meat! For the squeamish diner, masking the ant eggs (and actually ant larvae) with chicken or duck eggs could make it a bit more palatable, if not delicious. In Northeastern Thailand, I have tasted red‑ant egg salad but was a bit turned off by the aftertaste of formic acid.

· Brought to the table curried, or rolled in green leaves, mingled with shreds or very fine slices of fat pork.

· Pickled in salt water, tamarind juice, ginger, onion, a little sugar and Bai Makruet (Kaffir lime leaf).

· Mixed with pork

· Made into salad, fried with eggs, or put into bamboo shoot soup, etc.

· In spicy salads boiled, pan‑roasted.

· Fry them lightly with a little onion and garlic and serve with a nice guacamole.

· Eaten with a spoon, or for the true entomophage, on a tortilla atop the jade green velvet of avocado

Salsa Borracha

Salsa Borracha, or "Drunken Sauce," is a wonderful sauce used in many dishes. But it goes especially well with insects. Chapulines, or grasshoppers, that have been dried and cured in lime juice are often served with it. So are Escamoles, or ant eggs, whose corn‑like taste is set off by the complex flavors of the sauce.

6 ancho chiles, soaked, seeded, and deveined

1 cup orange juice

1‑2 Tbs cooking oil

1 /2 small onion, chopped

¼ cup mezcal or tequila.

1‑2 Tbs queso fresco (fresh Mexican cheese) grated

salt and pepper to taste

Soak chiles in water to cover until softened enough to puree. Remove seeds and veins. Place chiles in a blender or food processor together with orange juice. Process until smooth. Heat oil in a heavy skillet, add onion and sauté until transparent. Add chile-orange juice mixture and heat to boiling. Quickly reduce the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes. Pour sauce into a serving dish and allow to cool. Stir in tequila or mescal. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving sprinkle grated cheese on sauce. Serve on side of dish with ant eggs or dried grasshoppers.